Installing Aftermarket Head Units
Are you thinking about installing your own car stereo head unit? Be sure to read this article and figure out what you will need to do to get it done. Upgrading the sound system is usually one of the first modifications attempted when we talk about car customization. The best place to start is with a good head unit. If you plan to install it yourself, read on for some technical tips from our experience installers. You will need a few tools to do the job right, so start by collecting some screwdrivers (flat head and phillips head), a socket set, wire cutters, wire splitters, butt connectors or heat shrinking sleeves, electrical tape, zip ties, solder and a soldering iron, and some patience. The first thing I would do before installing I would suggest buying the stereo wiring harness for your vehicle application. This will make the installation easier for you if you are a beginner, and it allows for easier replacement of the stock radio (if you choose to sell the vehicle in the future) and swapping or upgrading to a different aftermarket head unit. Begin by disconnecting the negative battery cable from the battery. This will ensure that you don’t accidentally cross any wires and burn out a new piece of equipment. Next, remove the old head unit. If you need to see how this is done on your specific vehicle, you can look up your vehicles application on installdr.com. This is a great resource for seeing pictures of how to remove the head unit. Once it is loose, disconnect the wiring harness and the antenna from the head unit and remove it completely. There are two types of wiring harnesses you can get. There is the universal wiring harness that connects to your vehicles existing wiring harness, and has the unfinished wire ends that connect to the color coded wires of your new head unit. There is also a wiring harness that has a harness on both ends, and just clicks in place on both sides. These are the easiest to install, but can be harder ot find to match your vehicle to the head unit. Most wiring harnesses are the universal type, so we will focus on those. If you have obtained the wiring harness, you will notice the color coded wires in the back of the head unit. The wires on the head unit and wiring harness should match. The head unit wires and the wiring harness wires will be partially spliced for easy installation. There are several good ways to connect the wires. One way is to use butt connectors, which crimp the wires within a connector. These can be picked up almost anywhere that sells/installs head units, or at Walmart, etc. My favorite way requires a soldering iron and heat shrinking sleeves. Twist the wires together tightly. Apply just enough solder to weld the two wires together. Now fold them over parallel to one of the wires. Slide the sleeve over the connection and heat it with a heat gun or good hair dryer. I have had to rewire or repair systems where butt connectors were used, but this could be installer error, and not a problem with the connectors themselves. I have never had any of the soldered connections fail. Once all the connections are made, and the sleeves heated and shrunk in place, I like to take a zip tie and tie them all together. Clip the excess zip tie for a clean finished look. Connect the wiring harness of the head unit to the wiring harness connected to the vehicle. Plug in the antenna (you may find you need an antenna adapter in some applications). Now slide the head unit in place, but don’t attach it yet. Reconnect the negative battery cable and turn on the head unit (make sure the key is turned to the ACC position). It should be functioning properly at this point. If you plan on adding an amp, or have purchased one for this setup, turn the unit off and connect the RCA cables. Run them through the dash to the floorboard and to the amp (more on how to successfully do this in future articles). If you encounter problems, you can email <A HREF="mailto:support@majesticmodifications.com">support@majesticmodifications.com</A> for help. Brought to you by <A HREF="http://www.majesticmodifications.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.majesticmodifications.com</A>. Majestic Modifications is your online source for auto parts and accessories, installations advice and technical support.
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Buying The Right Spare Parts For Your Car
All car owners want the best for their automobiles. Therefore, they are providing it utmost care through regular maintenance checks. The engine must be tuned-up and checked from time to time, the oil has to be changed, and spark plugs need to be replaced or repaired. This is only some of the ways you can ensure that your car is ready at all times and won?t present any problems when you need it the most. Providing your car the necessary spare parts is very important in regular maintenance check-up. Despite the limited budget for it, you are still entitled to a cheap but good quality car parts. Brand-New Car Parts Of course, if you own a new sports utility vehicle, you also need to provide it with a new set of car parts once it needs repair. Before buying brand new car parts, consider some important points. First is what parts do you need to purchase? You can refer to the catalogue or instruction manual of your car and list down the right model number of those car parts. Next is where will you buy those parts? First option you can go to is your authorized car dealer where you have purchased the automobile. They can offer the right car parts plus discounts and guarantee for it. Aside from those, make sure that the parts they are offering are new and can last longer. Second option is the assorted car parts center. There you will find different brands of car parts. You can ask their sales staff to help you find the right parts that your automobile needs. If you are in doubt that they are selling new spare parts, you can also ask them and let them assure you that they are selling such kind. Second-Hand Car Parts You can also opt to purchase second-hand or used car parts. Before venturing into such options, the following should be taken into consideration: ? Since you are looking for some used car parts, the reliability of its source should be considered. Try to look in classified ads for possible vendors of such old car parts, or you go around the neighborhood and ask for their location. ? There are times that such used parts are only available in dealerships and in a local mechanic?s shop. It will be challenge for you to look for them, and there is always a possibility that the part you need will not match with the part they are offering. ? Always check the compatibility of the old car parts that a seller is offering. Some parts that are needed do not have to be original. There are surplus items or a compatible part from another car brand that you can use. It will be able to save you money for other things. ? If you are having difficulty looking for the parts you need, browse through the Internet especially for some old parts unavailable in your locality. Once you have found the right old car part dealer online, you can check their payment options. Be sure you are ready to accept their terms of reference of the parts that you want to acquire. Either brand-new or second-hand car parts ensure of its quality. Because just like human beings, cars also tends to malfunction if wrong parts are provided to it. Be careful and meticulous in selecting the spare parts needed for your car. Lavinia Snider is the editor of <a href="http://www.carauctionplaza.info">Car Auction Plaza</a>. Get detailed information on car and vehicle auctions.
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Demystifying The Tire Sidewall Code
So, you need new tires for your car or truck, but how do you know what to buy? What do all those alphanumeric codes printed on the tire sidewalls mean, anyway? If you’re in the market for new tires, you may simply want to replace your worn tires with exactly the same tire it came with. But you MAY want to consider an upgrade. If you know how to read the tire sidewalls, chock full of valuable information, you’ve got an advantage over most people and are prepared to make an informed decision. So let’s get underway! Tire Size Markings (example: P215/65R15 89H) Broken down: P = Passenger Other designations are LT = Light Truck T = Temporary (spare tire) 215 is the width (in millimeters) of the tire from sidewall to sidewall. A wider tire has more grip but the bad news is that you lose fuel economy, hear more noise and the tires don’t work as well in the rain. 65 is the aspect ratio The aspect ratio is the ratio of sidewall height to tire width. With regards to aspect ratio, the larger the number, the taller the tire sidewall. Tall (60-75) is great for a quiet ride but causes howling in turns. Short (35-55) is better for handling–more for sports cars. R indicates Radial. This means it is constructed with a series of support belts sideways under the tread. Other designations include B for Belted Bias and D for Diagonal Bias The standard, and what you’ll see most often, is R. 15 is the wheel (or rim) diameter, in inches. 89 is the load index H is the speed rating Speed ratings indicate the top speed under ideal conditions. Higher-rated tires are usually made of softer rubber and will have shorter UTQG tread life. Here are a few of the more common speed ratings: R= 106, S=112, T=118, U=124, H=130, V=149, W=168, Y=186. Along with this speed rating, you have a load index which indicates the approximate weight the tire can carry. Some of the more common load weights are as follows: 85 = 1,135 pounds, 86 = 1,168 pounds, 87 = 1,201 pounds, 88 = 1,235 pounds. UTQG Ratings Passenger car tires are accompanied by a UTQG Rating (Uniform Tire Quality Grading, mandated by the Federal Government) which rates the tread life of tires by looking at tread wear, traction and temperature resistance. The UTQG Rating is usually found opposite the tire size markings and will be in three separate ratings: treadwear, traction and temperature. The treadware grade standard is 100. A grade of 200 means the tread would wear twice as well as a tire graded 100. Traction grades run from AA to C, with AA being the highest grade and C meaning the tire brakes poorly on both wet concrete and wet asphalt. Temperature grades rate the tire’s resistance to and ability to dispel heat. Those grades are A (resists heat well), B (not as good as A) and C (passes minimum safety standards.) Keep in mind that heavy loads, under-inflation of the tires, and high speeds can all affect the tire temperature. You should note that these tire grades rate tires measured under controlled conditions. Factors such as driving habits, road conditions, climate, etc., are not considerations and may affect the actual performance of your tire. DOT DOT (Department of Transportation) indicates the tire is in compliance with applicable DOT safety standards. Next to DOT is an identification or serial number–codes that designate where and when the tire was produced. You’ll also find other information on the sidewall such as the type and composition of the tire, the maximum cold inflation (PSI) and maximum load in pounds. So as you can see, tires carry a huge amount of information. But it’s really not all that complicated once you learn to read the code. Debbie Pettitt is webmaster for Everything Tires, your tire resource. For more information on tires, visit http://everythingtires.com
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